Flood Recovery for Rural Areas - part 2

Cleaning up after a Flood - Setting Priorities

Priorities will vary with the kind and seriousness of damage. Buildings may not be habitable during repair.

Examine building structure. Check foundations for settling, cracking or undermining. Examine walls, floors, doors, and windows to determine what repairs are necessary. You may want to repair only temporarily until extensive work can be done.
If basement is flooded, start pumping the water in stages. Pump about one-third of the water each day.
Get the electrical system in operation. If the switch box is in a flooded basement, do not turn electricity back on until water has been pumped out. Take electrical appliances to a serviceman as soon as possible.
Get the water system in operation. Disinfect wells and water system.
Shovel out mud and silt before it dries.
Before they dry, wash down flooded walls and floors with a hose. Start at upper limit of flooding and work downward.
Scrub and disinfect walls and floors.
Start the heating system if possible to speed up drying. Before operating it, the heating system may need to be cleaned, dried and reconditioned. Make sure chimneys are clean before starting system.
Dry out walls and floors. If necessary for proper drying, strip walls open up to water level. Drill holes in exterior siding. Complete drying may take months.
Repair buckled walls and floors.
Clean and dry household items, furniture, carpets, clothing, dishes and bedding. Disinfect when necessary.
Treat items for mildew as needed.
Care for damaged trees, shrubs and lawn.
Repaint, repair, refinish as necessary

Remedies for Homeowners

Groundwater flooding can cause many problems for homeowners. Structural damage, sewer system back-ups and damaged appliances are three of the most distressing consequences. Fortunately, there are some remedies. They vary in scope, expense and results, just as homeowners vary in their expectations and resources.

Consider your Resources

Sound advice should be your first priority when groundwater flooding is a problem. Expertise can come from a variety of sources.

Local resources include your local emergency government office, building inspectors, insurance agents (if you have appropriate insurance), county Extension agents and the Home Builders Association. All have access to technical assistance, publications and possible sources of financial aid.
Financial assistance may be available through your local emergency government office. This may also include temporary housing and crisis counseling.
- Grants and low-interest loans may be available in cases of regional disasters.
- Check with your insurance agent to determine whether your homeowners insurance covers any of the damages. Groundwater, surface water and floodwater damages usually are not covered by homeowner's insurance. Your agent may have a rider available for groundwater flooding. Homes located in floodplains subject to surface water flooding are eligible for federal flood insurance.
Contractors can help you determine the nature and extent of your damages and what remediation options are appropriate for your situation.
- A waterproofing contractor may be able to correct the problem if you simply need to stop minor nuisance flooding.
- A general contractor may be necessary if you have damages to your home and need more substantial repairs and corrective measures. General contractors can arrange for the services of various specialists.

Your Options

The severity and frequency of groundwater flooding will in part dictate the best solution. The following options parallel increasing severity of groundwater flooding:

Raising appliances, furniture and fixtures. In cases where groundwater flooding is a minor nuisance that amounts to little more than wet walls and small streams across the basement floor to a drain, solutions may include:
- Raising or blocking up appliances, furniture and other items that may be damaged by direct contact with the water for an extended time;
- Installing a false floor over the basement slab. This allows water to drain under the false floor to a drain or sump.
- Installing a surface drainage system around the perimeter of the basement floor. This method channels water from the walls to a drain or sump for removal.
Relieving water pressure against walls and the floor. Some form of drainage is necessary when cracks occur because of water pressure.
- If the basement or foundation does not already have drain tile installed, consider an excavation of the home exterior to allow for waterproofing of the walls and the installation of washed stone (gravel) and drain tile. Drain tile can divert water away from the house if there is a slope, or accommodate a sump pump system as noted below.
- Internal drainage is another option if excavation is not possible or convenient. Washed stone and drain tile are installed around the interior perimeter of the basement footing. This requires subfloor installation and trenching.
- Sump pumps are a necessary part of the internal drainage system unless the interior tile can be connected to exterior tile that will drain away from the house. Similarly, sump pumps may be a necessary part of external drain tile systems if water does not drain away from the house naturally.
Filling the basement. This option can eliminate the groundwater problem, but the trade-off is the loss of a full basement. If the groundwater level in a basement is only 1 or 2 feet, one option is to pour a new floor in at a higher level, leaving a crawl space in the basement. The original floor needs to be broken first, so that water pressure can be relieved. Fill dirt is brought in and the new floor poured. Drainage under the new floor also is recommended. In more severe cases, the basement may have to be completely abandoned.
Rebuilding septic systems and wells. If septic systems and wells have been compromised, the systems should be rebuilt following modern guidelines for high groundwater areas. There may be added expenses related to closing or removing portions of existing systems that have failed.
Raising or relocating the house. This is the most expensive option. It is the best long-term solution when the building integrity is threatened and utilities must be shut off. In some cases, it may be the only reason-able option to avoid property damages and lower property values.

Checking Flood-damaged Buildings

Use extreme caution when entering any damaged building.
If you must enter at night, carry a flashlight or other light.
If gas lines are broken, turn off gas at the meter or tank.
Do not smoke or use any open flame.
Watch for loose plaster and ceilings that could fall.
Open as many doors and windows as possible to remove moisture, odors, and flammable or toxic gases. If windows are stuck tight, take off window trips and remove entire sash. If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge pins with a screwdriver and hammer, and remove doors.
If you are not qualified to judge the stability of a foundation, hire a contractor to make this inspection.
A neighborhood might join together in hiring a contractor for this work.
Examine foundations and supports for undermining. If walls or foundations have settled or cracked, uncover footings and raise, reinforce, or brace any settled sections.
Be extremely careful when uncovering footings because of the possibility of cavernous washouts.
If underlying material has been washed away, fill spaces to within 12 inches of the footing with gravel or crushed rock.
Fill the remaining space with concrete reinforced with steel rods.
Check piers for settling or shifting.
If the building has shifted or the floors have settled badly, it may be necessary to install temporary bracing until extensive work can be done.
Drain any crawl spaces which contain water.
Wash out mud, dirt, and debris as soon as possible with a hose and mop, cloth, or sponge. Clean walls and floors before silt or mud dries.
Start cleaning from the top floor or upper limit of flooding and work downward toward the first floor or basement.
Check walls with a level or plumb bob.
Brace walls where necessary.
Check mudsills, plates, soles, and anchorage. Replace or repair where necessary, using redwood, cedar or treated lumber.
To speed up drying of flooded studding and insulation, remove all siding strips or plaster from upper and lower parts of the walls. Do not repaint walls until they are completely dry.
This may take several months. Flooded insulation may be ruined.
Remove loose plaster. After house is completely dry, repair damaged plaster on walls and ceilings. Badly damaged plaster walls can be resurfaced with gypsum board or plywood.
Flooded wooden floors will dry out slowly. Do not build fires to speed up their drying, as this could cause cracking or splitting from uneven drying. However, if the central heating system is operating, keep the temperature of the house at 60 to 70 degrees to hasten drying without causing additional problems.
To prevent further buckling and warping, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or bulge.
After floors are completely dry, plane or sand them level.
If floors are too badly damaged to be refinished, lay a new floor over the old or cover with carpet, vinyl or linoleum.
If a concrete floor is badly damaged, break it up and install a new floor.
If damage is minor, patch with a rich mixture of concrete containing no coarse gravel aggregate.
Use plastic sheeting or roll roofing for temporary repair on solid deck roofs covered with asphalt shingles, wood shingles, or roll roofing.
Use knife consistency patching compounds to repair minor leaks.
You probably will have to replace damaged metal roofing on spaced roof decks.

Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements

Getting Out Water and Preventing Future Problems

Before you enter a flooded basement, take time to:

Turn off the electricity, preferably at the meter;
Check outside cellar walls for possible cave-ins, evidence of structural damage or other hazards;
Turn off gas or fuel service valves; and
Open doors and windows or use blowers to force fresh air into the basement.

Pumping

For safety reasons, do not use an electric pump powered by your own electrical system. Instead, use a gas-powered pump or one connected to an outside line. Fire departments in some communities may help with pumping services. More damage may be done by pumping flooded basements too soon or too quickly. Water in the basement helps brace the walls against the extra pressure of water-logged soil outside. If water is pumped out too soon, walls may be pushed in or floors pushed up. To help prevent this kind of structural damage:

Remove about a third of the water each day. Watch for signs of structural failing.
If the outside water level rises again after the day's pumping, start at the new water line.
Don't rush the pumping; the soil may be very slow to drain. Whatever is submerged in the basement will not be damaged further by delaying the pumping.

Cleaning

After water has been pumped from the basement, shovel out the mud and debris while it is still moist. Hose down walls to remove as much silt as possible before it dries. Floors and walls may need sanitizing, particularly if sewage has entered the basement. Scrub walls and floors with one of these sanitizing solutions: Chloride of lime (25 percent available chlorine). Dissolve a 12-ounce can in two gallons of water. High test hypochlorite (65 percent available chlorine). Stir five ounces into two gallons of water.

Oil stains caused by overturned or damaged oil tanks also may be a problem following basement flooding. Commercial products, available from fuel-oil suppliers, will help neutralize fuel oil. The products come in powder form or an aerosol spray for hard-to-reach places. To remove oil stains and destroy odor: wipe up excess oil, shake or spray product on the spot according to manufacturer's directions, let it set, then sweep it up.

Inspection and Repair

Before beginning repairs, make a thorough inspection of supporting columns, beams, walls and floors. Unless you have structural expertise, hire a contractor to make a professional survey. (Consider joining with neighbors for a group-rate inspection.) Repairs may extend to the following:

Buckled walls. Signs of buckling include horizontal cracking and areas that have moved out of vertical alignment. When this condition is minor, you need not repair the wall immediately. However, any noticeably buckled wall will eventually collapse from normal ground pressures and seasonal temperature changes. When buckling has seriously weakened the wall, the damaged parts should be rebuilt immediately. Pilasters (vertical reinforcements) may need to be constructed into walls over 15 feet long. Pilaster spacing should be 12 to 15 feet.
Settled walls and footings are indicated by vertical cracks either in small areas or throughout the structure. Repairs are difficult without special equipment. Contact a reliable contractor for this work.
Heaved floors are those that have not returned to their original level or have cracked badly. The floor may have to be removed and a new floor constructed. If a floor is badly cracked, but has returned to its original level, a new floor may be placed over the old one. A vapor barrier should be added between the two floors. The new floor should be at least 2 inches thick. In houses without basements, the area below the floor may be completely filled with mud. Shovel out the mud as soon as possible to avoid rotting joists or foundation wood.

Home Clean-Up and Sanitation

Safely Cleaning a Flood-Damaged Home

Clean-up priorities will vary depending upon the kind and seriousness of damage to your home. But assuming major concerns such as structural safety, basement flooding, and electrical and water systems have been addressed, clean-up can begin inside. Start cleaning your furnishings as soon as possible. Your aim should be to thoroughly dry and clean the house before trying to live in it or have permanent repairs made. Early efforts should include taking furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry and prevent mildew.

Set Priorities and Keep Safety in Mind

As you begin clean-up, focus on accomplishing the most important tasks first. Resist over-exerting yourself.

Give special attention to cleaning children's toys, cribs, playpens and play equipment. Boil any items a toddler or baby might put in his or her mouth. Discard stuffed toys, water-logged toys and non-cleanable items.
Keep chemicals used for disinfecting and poisons used for insect and rodent control out of children's reach.
Wear protective clothing on legs, arms, feet and hands while cleaning up debris.

General Rules for Cleaning and Disinfecting

Wash exposed skin frequently in purified water. Wear rubber gloves to protect against contamination and skin irritation.
Try using a pump-up garden sprayer or hose to remove layers of mud from hard surfaces.
Scrub with a household cleaner/detergent solution and a brush to remove remaining surface oil. Rinse with clean water.
Wash with a disinfectant, such as chlorine bleach, pine oil or a phenolic product, such as Lysol. Remember, a product is considered to be a disinfectant only if it is labeled as such. Rinse well.
Dry items thoroughly to prevent mildew growth.
Sanitize dishes, cooking utensils and food preparation areas before using them (see fact sheet, Disinfecting Dishes, Cookware and Utensils).

Removing Mold and Mildew

Brush off mold and mildew growth on household items outdoors to prevent scattering of spores in the house.
Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew. Then wash surfaces with a detergent/household cleaner and water solution. Related publications: "Repairing Your Flooded Home," the American Red Cross/Federal Emergency Management Agency, 1992.
Wipe mildew-stained areas with a cloth dampened with a solution of 1 cup of chlorine bleach or rubbing or denatured alcohol to 1 gallon water. Pine-based or phenolic products also work well.

Preventing Mildew Growth

Use an air conditioner, dehumidifier or heater, if available, to remove moisture. Use fans to circulate air and open all windows.
Turn on electric lights in closets and leave doors open to dry the dampness and humidity.
Spray with a fungicide or other mildew preventive product. Read and follow instructions and precautions on product label. Dry thoroughly.

Electrical Systems and Appliances

General Clean-Up and What To Do Before the Electrician Arrives

Restoring the electrical system and evaluating damage to appliances are high priorities after a flood. But before your electrical system is turned on, it should be thoroughly checked for short circuits by an electrician or other competent person. Ask your power supplier for advice and assistance.

Before entering your home after the flood, be sure that the electricity has been completely shut off. Appliances should not be operated until they have been thoroughly cleaned and reconditioned. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it and may cause electrical shock.

Electrical Circuits and Equipment

Things to do before the electrician arrives:

Have electricity shut off at both the meter and in the buildings. When touching switches, stand on a dry board and wear rubber soled shoes, and use a dry stick or rubber gloves to pull handles.
Remove covers from all switches, convenience outlets, light outlets and junction boxes that have been under water.
If a box is filled with mud, remove the screws that hold the receptacle or the switch in place. Pull receptacle, switch and wires out about two inches from box. Clean out all mud and dirt. Do not remove electrical connections. Leave boxes open for electrician.
Remove all fuses and covers from entrance panel. Clean out all mud. Wires can be moved, but do not disconnect. For some equipment, such as pumps, a temporary line can be installed by an electrician until the permanent wiring has a chance to dry.

Restoring Electrical Service After a Flood

CAUTION: Wear rubber gloves and rubber soled boots for all work with electrical circuits. Rubber is an insulator and will help protect you from shocks.

Turn power off:
disconnect the main electrical power switch and other switches controlling pumps or outbuildings. If your main switch is located in the basement, be sure all flood water has been pumped out before you attempt any work on the electrical system. Stand on dry board when touching any switches and use a dry stick or wear rubber gloves to pull handles. Remove all branch circuit fuses or place circuit breakers in off position to ensure that power is off. Disconnect all plug-in equipment and turn off the switch at each piece of permanently connected equipment. Unscrew all light bulbs.

Clean and dry the system.

If flood water covered your first floor, electrical outlets and switches are probably wet. They must be dried before service can be restored.Remove the covers from switches, convenience outlets and other electrical connections. Pull receptacles, switches and wires about two inches out from their boxes. Do not disconnect the wires.

Clean out mud and dirt with clean water. Allow wires and connections to dry.

Use extreme caution in cleaning mud and dirt from the main entrance box. Because the power line enters here, this is the most hazardous part of the electrical system to work on. Assume the sewer lin is hot even if a tes shows power is off. Never hose out a hot switch box. Wear rubber gloves and rubber soled shoes. Do not touch anything wet or stand in water while working on the box.

In an emergency, pull the electrical meter from only its base to disconnect the power. Notify the electric company that you broke the seal, lock, or tag. Allow electrical wires and connectors to dry completely. This may take days depending on how wet the system is and if any heat is available. Check the system for electrical shorts.

While standing on a dry board or ladder and wear rubber gloves and rubber soled shoes, check the main switch box to be sure all fuses are removed. Close the main switch and look for sparks or smoking wires. These indicate shorted switch connections. If you see evidence of such shorts, carefully try to correct the problem. You may need a new switch.

If the switch is in working order, open the switch and insert a fuse in one branch circuit. Close the switch to check for shorts in that branch circuit.

If the fuse does not blow immediately, wait at least 15 minutes to check for slower electrical leaks. Smoking wires and sparks in the circuit also indicate trouble and you should carefully inspect all parts of the branch circuit you are checking.

If there are any signs of smoking or heating, if the fuse blows, or circuit breaker trips, remove all fuses and open the main switch. You may need to do additional cleaning or drying, or you may possibly need to replace circuit breaker trips, remove all fuses and open the main switch. You may need to do additional cleaning or drying, or you may possibly need to replace circuit parts.

Repeat one at a time.

After you have checked all the circuits and found them in good condition, one again remove all fuses and open the main switch. Replace wires for elctrical receptacles, switches and light outlets in junction boxes. Replace covers.

Then check each branch circuit again by replacing one fuse at a time and closing the main switch. If everything is okay, close the main switch. For 24 hours be careful when using receptacles and switches. There may be slow leaks which could cause shocks. Do not plug in electrical appliances that have been flooded until they have been reconditioned.

If some circuits are faulty, use only the undamaged circuits. Do not overload undamaged circuits with too may lights or appliances until normal electricity is restored.

Some newer homes may have a ground fault circuit interruption system with their circuit breaker. This will probably need to be replaced.

Electrical Appliances

Here are some general rules to follow:

Television sets and radios. Professional cleaning is recommended for these types of appliances. There is a danger of shock because certain internal parts can store electricity even when the appliance is unplugged. Check the back for a warning label. Get a cost estimate before repairs to see if the appliance is worth saving.
Motorized appliances. These include the washing machine, dryer, dishwasher and vacuum cleaner. Professional cleaning of the motor and other parts is recommended. However, you can clean the exterior surfaces in the meantime.
- Use a heavy-duty cleaner and hot water to remove stains and silt deposits. Follow up with a rinse solution of 2 tablespoons chlorine bleach to each quart of water.
- When removing gritty deposits, rinse your cloth in water frequently to avoid scratching enamel or metal surfaces.
- Clean and disinfect dishwashers, washing machines and dryers only with water that has been declared safe to drink.
Refrigerators, freezers and ovens. These appliances may have foam insulation and sealed components that suffer little water damage. But since they hold food, they should be cleaned, disinfected and checked by a professional or replaced. If replacement is recommended, get the opinion in writing and discuss it with your insurance adjuster before money is spent for a new appliance.
Heating appliances. Disconnect hot water heaters and remove all panels and any flood-soaked insulation. Have an electrician or professional repair person clean and restore the unit to working order.
Lights and lamps. Remove fixtures that were submerged. Clean outlet boxes, sockets and wiring. Floor or table lamps should be completely disassembled and cleaned. Damaged cords and plugs should be replaced. Consider taking lamps to an appliance shop unless you are familiar with these repairs.

Grounding

All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be electrocuted. If you are unsure if your electrical system is properly grounded, call an electrician.

Restoring Heating Systems After a Flood

Assessing Damage and General Clean-Up

Any heating system exposed to flooding should be professionally inspected, cleaned and reconditioned before reuse. Floodwater may have damaged heating equipment and undermined chimneys. If chimney cracks or leaks go unrepaired, your family is at risk of fire or carbon-monoxide poisoning. Ask the service person if there is anything you can do to help before his or her arrival. Usually this will include turning off fuel and power to flooded units as a safety measure, and removing mud and debris from the furnace housing and inside the chimney. Leave things like inspection of oil storage tanks and cleaning of motors, blowers and other flooded parts to the professional. Flood insurance and federal disaster assistance programs usually will help replace flooded gas and oil appliances, including furnaces.

Oil and Gas Systems

In general, any flooded parts should be professionally inspected and cleaned before turning the system back on. Check your owner's manual if you are unfamiliar with the system.

If your furnace was flooded to the level of the burners, turn off the valve on the pipe leading to it. If burners were hot when flooded, parts may have cracked.
Modern furnaces also have an electrical switch for blowers. Turn this off as well if any furnace parts were flooded.

Oil-Burning Systems

Have the storage tank inspected by an experienced person to make sure water and dirt have not entered.
Have the electric motor, burners, blowers, fuel pump and gears cleaned and reconditioned by an expert. Flooded fuel filters should be replaced.
Be certain that the fan motor, electric ignition systems and wiring are completely clean and dry before you turn on the electricity.
If you have a hot water system, clean the fins on baseboard radiators. Clean any wall radiators.

Liquid Petroleum and Natural Gas Systems

Some natural gas systems may have a valve to the pilot gas line, in addition to the main fuel valve. Turn both off if this is the case. Have a service person:
- Check to see if water leaked into the controls or pressure regulator.
- Clean and recondition all flooded equipment, including burner elements, electric controls and regulators.
- Replace severely flooded electric blower motors.
If you smell natural gas which has a distinctive, putrid odor leave your home and contact your utility company or a service person. Do not use open flames in the area.

Electric System

Electric heating systems are part of electrical wiring system clean-up. Many local codes require that a licensed electrician do the work, or that a municipal inspector check the system before you turn the power back on. If power isn't shut off to a flooded furnace system, shut the main switch off at the meter or remove the fuse to the furnace. (When touching switches, stand on a dry board and use rubber gloves or a dry stick to pull handles.) Clean mud and debris from electric baseboard heating fixtures, being careful not to damage heating equipment. Have a professional handle cleaning and reconditioning of all working parts.

Chimneys

A cracked, clogged or leaky chimney can cause fires or carbon monoxide poisoning. Be sure you check your chimney for dirt, debris and leaks before lighting the furnace or a fire. If flood damage has occurred, have a mason do an inspection and make repairs.

Most chimneys have a foundation in the ground. If the chimney looks like it has settled or tilted, examine the footing to see whether it has been undermined.
Have the chimney rebuilt if it has settled badly or is broken where it passes through floors or roof.
If mortar in the joints between bricks has disintegrated, have a mason rejoin the chimney with cement.

Flood-Damaged Walls, Ceilings and Floors

Removing Moisture, Cleaning and Repairing

Be prepared to let flood-damaged walls, ceilings and floors dry for several weeks. If restoration work is completed before proper drying, mold and mildew will continue to grow. The result may be structural damage to your home, the need to repaint walls or replace new wall coverings, and discomfort or illness to family members who have allergies.

Getting the Moisture Out

Remove all water as soon as possible from your home. Also remove furnishings that are water soaked. Once water is removed, the next step is removing moisture that has been absorbed by wood, plaster and other materials. If the weather permits, open doors and windows to remove moisture and odors. If the outside humidity becomes greater than inside, close things up; likewise, close up the house overnight if temperatures drop and moist air might otherwise be drawn indoors. If windows are stuck tight, take off window strips and remove entire sash. If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge pins with a screwdriver and hammer, then remove.

Consider using dehumidifiers to speed up drying when outside humidity levels are high. If possible, rent commercial dehumidifiers, which remove three to four times more water than home models. When using dehumidifiers, shut windows and doors. If there is severe flooding in your home, consider hiring a contractor for water removal. Some companies can dry homes in less than a week with commercial dehumidifiers and air movers.

Walls and Ceilings

Wash out mud, dirt and debris as soon as possible with a hose and mop cloth or sponge. Start cleaning from the top floor or upper limit of flooding and work downward. Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least the flood level. Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a chimney effect of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.

Plaster usually does not need to be replaced, though it will take a very long time to dry. Some paneling may be salvaged if allowed to dry slowly. You also should remove and dispose of any flood-damaged insulation, which will hold water for months after getting wet.

Removing Mildew

To remove surface mildew on walls or ceilings, use a mildew surface cleaner (available at paint stores) or: scrub the mildew with household detergent, then scrub with a solution of a quarter of a cup chlorine bleach to 1 quart water. Rinse well with clean water. Once fully dry, apply a coat of paint containing an anti-mildew agent.

To remove surface mildew on floors and woodwork, use a phosphate cleaning solution such as powdered automatic dishwashing detergent or trisodium phosphate (4 to 6 tablespoons to a gallon of water), available in hardware stores. Rinse with water, and when dry, apply a mildew-resistant finish.

To clean surfaces:

Thoroughly wash and disinfect walls, ceilings, exposed wall cavities and studs.
Use a good disinfectant to prevent mildew build-up. One cup of chlorine bleach mixed with a gallon of water works well. For a soapier cleaning solution, add a half cup of mild detergent. Do not add ammonia as the combination of chlorine and ammonia can be lethal. Wear rubber gloves.
If walls have already dried, work from the ceiling to the floor to prevent streaking. (Dirty water splashed on dry walls may be absorbed and become almost impossible to remove.) Overlap sections, cleaning the ceiling last.

Floors

Before the house has dried out, scrub floors and woodwork with a stiff brush, plenty of water, a detergent and disinfectant. Carpeting soaked by contaminated floodwater should be removed and discarded unless it can be sanitized at a commercial facility for a cost substantially less than replacement. Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor. Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards.

Once Floors Have Dried

Assess whether your floors can be repaired, replaced or recovered. Consider your time and budget as you make any decisions. If hardwood floors are damaged beyond repair, you may want to forego the cost of replacement and instead cover them with carpeting, vinyl or linoleum. Or you might lay a new floor over the old, rather than replace it.

Plywood subfloors may have delaminated (separated) from excessive moisture, causing buckling. Sections may have to be replaced or have new plywood nailed over them. Consult a contractor for this work.
If buckling or warping has occurred, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or bulge. This will prevent further damage. Badly warped hardwood floors usually can't be repaired. Warped, wide pine board flooring, however, will often flatten out after it has thoroughly dried.
Plane or sand floors level. Do not refinish until thoroughly dry.

Drying and Repairing Walls

Remedies for Interior and Exterior Surfaces

Walls must be dry from the inside out before restoration, repainting or recovering can begin. Even when walls feel dry to the touch, the material inside the wall may be wet. Drying the inside of the walls may take weeks or even months. The total drying time will depend partially on the amount of dry air that can circulate through the studding and different wall materials.

Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but you still need to get air circulating in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills. Wallboard soaked by dirty floodwater will need to be replaced. If the wallboard was damaged by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This will create a chimney effect to speed up drying time. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well for this task, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.

Guidelines for Wall Coverings and Insulation

Remove drywall, laminated paneling and plaster at least to the flood level. Warping above the water level often occurs with drywall and paneling, so more may need to be removed.
Plaster walls can sometimes be adequately drained by removing the baseboard and breaking out plaster and lath at the bottom of the wall. Later the baseboard can cover the opening.
Some paneling may be salvaged if allowed to dry slowly. Remove the baseboard from paneled walls and pry off the individual sheets. Prop them against the wall to dry. Don t allow them to dry in sunlight, which may cause warping.
Remove vinyl-covered wallpaper. It will restrict drying within flood-damaged walls.
Water-soaked insulation should be removed and replaced. It can hold water for months, causing odor and decay problems. While wet it has little insulation value.
Consider wainscoting as a restoration option if flooding is no higher than 3 feet above the floor.

Patching Plaster

Do not attempt to repair plaster until walls and inner walls (studding and insulation) are completely dry. If walls were flooded extensively, you may need to wait four to six weeks, or even several months, before attempting repairs. Drywall compound is the preferred method for patching plaster. It comes in a variety of types with different drying times, shrinkage characteristics and consistencies. Read labels to select the type you need.

Repairing Exterior Siding

Dry wall cavities from the inside if possible. (See previous section.)
Remove small section of siding to check conditions on the reverse side. If crevasses are filled with silt, remove siding to water level and clean. Silt left in crevasses will trap moisture, causing mold, decay and peeling paint.
Check for cracked or warped siding. If only a few boards are warped or cracked, replace them individually.

Checking Sheathing

Sheathing is the material between studding and finish siding. Depending upon the type of sheathing, replacement may or may not be necessary.

Wooden boards should dry slowly and some will warp. Re-nail warped areas after they dry. Replace those that are too badly warped to salvage.
Sheathing board is usually absorbent and difficult to dry. Replace any that is disintegrating or separating.
Plywood will probably separate and must be replaced. Marine plywood will not warp or separate, but is generally considered too expensive to use in residential construction unless the building is subject to frequent flooding.

Assessing and Repairing Leaky Roofs

Safely Fixing a Watery Problem

You may be anxious to stop a roof from leaking, but don't risk serious injury trying to inspect or repair it. First, try binoculars for a closer view. Next, check the attic for a drip trail. Leaks are rarely located directly above the water spot on the ceiling. When you find a leak in the attic, push a nail, straw or wire through it to help you or a repair person locate it outside. If rain continues to be a problem and a repair person is unavailable, follow the directions at right for temporary relief. But be sure that only a physically able person gets on the roof for these emergency measures. Unsteadiness on the ladder or roof can lead to severe injuries.

Temporary Repairs

Cover holes in the roof, walls or windows with boards, tarps or plastic sheeting. Nail down plastic sheets or trash bags with strips of wood and secure them with duct tape. If the holes are large, you may need to support the plastic in the center to keep it from ripping from the weight of the rain. If sections of the roof or floors are sagging, have a contractor or other knowledgeable person brace weak areas. Improper bracing may increase damage and the chance of injury, so do not attempt this work unless you are experienced in structural repairs.

Causes of Leaks

Storm and wind damage are responsible for some roof problems. Others are caused by defective materials, faulty construction or gradual deterioration. Here are some common causes of leaks:

Defective flashing. Flashing is the sheet metal used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof. Clogged downspouts or eaves. Check for choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice accumulations on eaves sometimes form ridges, which cause melting snow to back up under the shingles.

Cracks and deterioration. Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.

Holes. Missing shingles or holes in the roofing may be causing wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.

Repairing Leaks

Methods of repair will depend on the kind of roofing and the nature and extent of the leak. Unless you are experienced, hire a professional roofer for this work. Missing shingles should be replaced, holes repaired and cracks filled. Whatever method is used, avoid walking on patched sections.